• How can wheels so light have such high durability?

    Of course they can, it is all about combining the best materials with the best manufacturing.
    The use of certain solutions is possible only for expert craftsmen and in small-scale productions. For this reason most wheels don't actually need centring and the spokes, in their specific housing, are subject only to tensile forces and never to side loads that could break them or introduce lateral flexure.

  • Is it true that carbon wheels don't brake properly?

    For traditional rims (not disc brakes) the braking on carbon wheels during rainy and long-descents has always been tricky.
    With prolonged braking, high temperature can be reached, sometimes higher than 300°C. This heating process can compromise the rim, which will deform and delaminate, and it can affect the tubular tire, as the air pressure will increase linearly with the temperature. This is why the rim structure needs to be properly designed and the air pressure should not be greater than 10 atm.
    This is also the reason why Tivan wheels has been designed with a basalt-enriched braking track: this material improves the braking performance and allows the braking process to be regulated. Moreover, it strongly reduces the operating temperature. Specific brake pads are supplied together with the wheels.

    Test Cerchi in Carbonio Test Cerchi in Carbonio

  • What is the best way to use the brakes on carbon wheels?

    As we have just mentioned, due to the warming up of rim and tubular tire, when descending steep downhill (15-20%) a few simple rules must be kept in mind in order to efficiently brake on carbon wheels:
    1. use specific brake pads.
    2. do not drag the brakes for prolonged periods, not even slightly.
    3. brake firmly and with pauses: it is much better to apply brakes confidently and for short intervals than keeping them in use continuously in a light manner.
    4. let the braking surface cool between braking moments, with the methods just mentioned and by alternating, if possible, the action of the front and rear brake.

  • The brake pads squeak, what is the reason?

    The use of specific brake pads efficiently gets rid of this problem on our wheels.
    In general, assuming that the braking surface and pads are perfectly clean from dirt, lubricants and cleansers, it is good practice to install them slightly 'toed-in', which means the front edge of the pads should touch the braking track slightly earlier than its rear edge. A good mechanic will be able to suggest you the right position.

  • The wheels seem to be unbalanced and they start to vibrate at high speed

    This can happen to wheels as side effect of extremely low weight and performance at the limits, but it can be easily fixed.
    It usually happens on aluminium and even more on carbon wheels, especially if valve extensions have been used. The aluminium rim is built from long tubes of extruded aluminium and this is why at the origin, on such a large-scale processing, it is difficult to make a perfect balancing. It is even more difficult when working with carbon fibre, where the presence of epoxy can introduce irregularities up to 2-3%.
    A possible solution can be reached by adding an extra weight (as with a bolt) along one spoke, until reaching a perfect balance and obtaining a wheel with a neutral behaviour. That is the position where to add a little bit of weight (for example by silicone injection), in the corresponding spoke hole under the rim flap.
    Alternatively, a number of specific stickers that balance the valve weight are available for sale.
    As it is difficult to know the kind of tyre, valve and valve extension that will be used with the rim (and the corresponding unbalancing weight), we usually don't supply these tools together with the rim, but they can obviously be requested at the moment of the wheel purchase.

  • Can the Spada hubs be maintained without tools?

    Yes, the hubs have been designed to be simple and easy to disassemble and handle. There are just a few simple steps that will make the hub perform at its maximum levels for years.
    Please find in the menu on the right the manual for hub maintenance.

  • Why are the wheels not adjustable?

    We use high-precision bearings very widely spaced (Campagnolo 4 cm - Spada 9 cm).
    This involves that any play is not felt on the wheel as it is not amplified.
    Adjusting this kind of bearings would involve making the balls working tighter against the edges of the races and so reduce their smoothness.
    If after years of usage, a wheel starts to show some sort of play, it means that it needs new bearings, which in our wheels are very cheap and easy to change. The change of the bearings is much cheaper than the substitution of the balls as it was in the traditional hubs. Moreover, the old outer race is not kept for usage and instead both races are changed with new ones, so maintaining the performance of the bearings.

  • There is a creaking sound when I pedal: how can I stop it?

    The aluminium used for the different parts of the bike can oxidise and the contact among different metals can be at the source of noise. Even if this does not point to malfunctioning, it can be annoying.
    Our hubs are very easy to disassemble and to check: have a look at our manuals and at the video that can be found on this page.

  • Is changing the spokes a complicated procedure?

    It is much faster than for many wheels with aluminium spokes or with products that need to be returned to the warehouse.
    Our wheels have been designed to be simple to disassemble and handle.

  • The free-wheel body seems to be dragging

    It probably needs a longer running-in period and after a few km it will release. It must be noted however that this dragging takes place without pedalling and it does not affect at all the wheel performance.

  • How can I evaluate the bearing conditions?

    Lift the wheel and hold it by the extremes of the axle (front or rear). Pay attention, if you are working with the rear wheel, not to hold the free-wheel itself, as in that case you would feel the behaviour of the bearings of the free-wheel and not that of the main ones.
    Spin the wheel: if you cannot feel any kind of roughness and vibrations, this means that the bearings are perfectly fine. If the roughness is minimal, it could be due to a decay of the grease or oil (oil makes wheel spinning much smoother). If this is the case, just wash and lubricate again as indicated in the 'Assistance' section. It is always better to use a little amount of oil before the grease. If you can feel a lot of roughness and also vibrations, it is probably the case of changing the bearings as they have already too much play.

  • Can I reduce the play by tightening harder the quick release?

    No, the mechanism is not affected by the pressure applied by the quick releases, as much as the play between axle and bearings.
    When these parts are pressed together, they become one whole body and the plays are due to bearings that are damaged or worn or not stable in their housing.

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